Cozy Elf Slippers

 

A tightly knit, cushiony, comfortable slipper.  

 

One size fits most.  (Use 10 ½ knitting needles to make larger size.)

 

Skill level-Easy

 

Materials

Chunky Yarn, 3 different colors (I like Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Chunky)

Size 10 knitting needles

US H crochet hook

2 Large eye darning needles

 

Gauge

12 st=4 in.

25 rows=4in

 

Foot Instructions

 

Note-These slippers are tightly knit.  This makes the slipper more cushiony.  

Note-Do not weave in loose ends.  These will be tied together to make a tassel on the finished slipper.

 

Row 1.  With color A cast on 24 st.(counts as first row.

Row 2.  K across.

 

Row 3.  Slip first st.  Pass yarn between 1^st and 2^nd st to back of work.  Switch to color B.  Knit to end of row.

Note-At beginning of each row slip first st purlwise and pass yarn between 1^st and 2^nd st to back of work.  On odd rows switch to new color for second st.  This creates a neat edge.  Fig 1.  Be careful not to pull too tight.  Slipped st at beginning of row counts as k 1 (1^st st).  This makes first stitch of odd rows a different color.  (If new color is not already at back of work, pass it to the back between slipped st and second st.) Fig 1

 

Fig 1

 

Fig 2

 

Row 4.  K across with B.

 

Rows 5-38. (K 2 rows A.  K 2 rows B.) repeat to 38 rows.  (19 stripes.)

 

Note-For rows 39 through 68.  (Decrease on 3^rd st of 1^st and 2^nd rows, no decrease on 3^rd row.)Repeat to row 68.  The instructions, with colors, are written out because it is easy to lose count.  Counting rows and comparing to instructions helps keep track of when to decrease.  

 

 

Row 39.  With B k 2. (Remember at beginning of each row k2 means sl 1, k 1.)  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (23 st)

Row 40.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K across. (22 st, 20 stripes)

 

Row 41.  K across with A. (22 st)

Row 42.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row.  (21 st, 21 stripes.)

 

Row 43.  With B k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (20 st)

Row 44.  K across. (20 st, 22 stripes.)

 

Row 45.  With A k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (19 st)

Row 46.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (18 st, 23 stripes.)

 

Row 47.  K across with B. (18 st)

Row 48.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row.  (17 st, 24 stripes.)

 

Row 49.  With A k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (16 st)

Row 50.  K across . (16 st, 25 stripes.)

 

Row 51.  With B k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (15 st)

Row 52.  K2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (14 st, 26 stripes.)

 

Row 53.  K across with A.  (14 st)

Row 54.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (13 st, 27 stripes.)

 

Row 55.  With B k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (12 st)

Row 56.  K across. (12 st, 23 stripes.)

 

Row 57.   With A k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (11 st)

Row 58.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (10 st, 24 stripes.)

 

Row 59.  K across B. (10 st)

Row 60.  B 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row.  (9 st, 30 stripes.)

 

 

Row 61.  With A k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row. (8 st)

Row 62.  K across.  (8 st, 31 stripes.)

 

Row 63.  With B k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row.  (7 st)

Row 64.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row.  (6 st, 32 stripes.)

 

Row 65.  With A k across.  (6 st)

Row 66.  K 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row.  (5 st, 33 stripes.)

 

Row 67.  With B k 2.  K 2 tog.  K to end of row.  (4 st)

Row 68. K across. (4 st, 34 stripes.) Fig 3.

 

Fig 3

 

Cut yarn A and B, leaving long end tail. (About 36 inches.)

 

Draw end of color B through 4 st remaining on needle.  Fig 4.  

Fig 4

 

Thread both colors on to darning needles, lace ends of yarn back and forth through edge stitches at end of rows.  Match colors as you weave.  

Note-Start weaving color B from last row.  Thread end of color B to front of work and then start weaving at 3^rd stripe.  Fig 5, 6, 7. 

 

 

Fig 5

Fig 6

Fig 7

 

 

 

At 7^th stitch from toe (color B) pull end yarns to center.  Fig 8.  

Fig 8

Pull yarns tight, gathering your work.  

Tie a knot.  

This makes the toe curve upward.

 

Thread ends back to front side of work. Fig 9.

 

Fig 9

Note-for the next step it is easier to lace one color, pull it to gather it and then lace the other color and pull it tightly.

 

Continue lacing yarns back and forth until there are 12 edge stitches left on each side.  Pull yarns to center.  Pull yarns to gather slightly.  This shapes the foot. Tie a knot.  

 

Note-When you make the second slipper, match the gathering to the first slipper.  

 

Cuff Instructions

 

Pull B yarn through to the right side at same st where knot was tied.  With wrong side facing using the crochet hook, pull a loop through edge st and slip onto knitting needle.  Continue pulling loops through edge stitches to last row.  (12 st.)  

 

Slip stitches from left needle to right.  Fig 10.

 

Fig 10

 

With wrong side still facing, with A yarn, Thread yarn to right side of work.  Draw up loops through edge stitches on left side of work and slip them onto needle.  There should be 24 st on needle. Fig 11.

 

Fig 11

 

Note-Remember, do not weave in ends of yarn.  Leave them to make tassel on finished work.

 

Leave end of A hanging.  Start with new yarn A and knit across.  Fig 12.

Fig 12

Working the same pattern as lower part of slipper, switch to color C and k across.

 

K, alternating colors every two rows until you have 12 stripes.

 

Note-you may knit more rows to make a taller cuff.

 

Loosely knit off last row.

 

Turn slipper inside out and weave ends from top of cuff down to top of foot following same instructions as the foot.  Fig 13, 14.

 

Fig 13

Fig 14

Turn slipper right side out, and pull all yarn ends to right side.  Fig 15

 

Fig 15

 

Cut a piece of Yarn A about 24 inches.  Thread yarn through fold at bottom of foot.  Stitch up back of foot with half of yarn.  Stitch up again with other half of yarn, so both ends meet at top of foot, with all other yarn ends.  Fig 16, 17.

Fig 16

Fig 17

 

Knot opposite yarns.  (Knot two B yarns, two C yarns, two opposite A yarns.)

This closes any gap in the back of the slipper.

 

Wrap one B yarn about 8 times around all other yarns, close to the slipper.  Fig 18.

 

Fig 18

 

With darning needle thread yarn through the wrap from the slipper, out towards the ends of the yarn.  Fig 19.

Fig 19

 

Thread yarn through one more time to lock the stitch.

 

Cut all yarns to desired length to make a tassel.

 

 

 

Key to Abbreviations

K=knit

St=stitch

 

 

 

 

Temple Slipper Pattern

Temple Slippers

 

Measurements

Fits woman’s shoe size S(5-6) M(7-8) L(9-10)

 

Materials

Lily Sugar ‘n Cream

For size S, crochet cotton size 3

For M and L, Sportweight cotton yarn, such as Sinfonia, or Mimosa.  100gm=200m

US G crochet hook (4mm)

For size S, US D crochet hook

For size M and L, US E crochet hook (3mm)

Yarn needle

Narrow elastic braid

Optional: quilt batting, or felt to interline sole.

 

Difficulty- Intermediate to advanced

 

Instructions

Instructions are written for size S.  For size M and L, instructions are in parentheses.  Where only one size is given it applies to all sizes.

 

Sole (make 4)

Use Sugar’n Cream yarn

Ch 25(27-28)

1^st rnd:  Heel-5 sc in 2^nd ch from hook.  Side-Sc in each of next 12(13-13) ch. Hdc in each of next 10(11-12) ch.  Toe-7 hdc in last ch.  Side-Working down other side of ch, hdc in each of next 10(11-12)ch. Sc in next 12(13-13)st.  Join with sl st to first sc of round.  58(60-62)st.  

 

Hint-Weave a piece of contrasting yarn through work to mark beginning and ending of toe and heel, to help keep track of number of stitches. Fig 1.  Yarn will be slanted upward to the left-that is not a mistake.

 

Fig 1.

 

Hint= For each row there are 3 increases at the heel and 4 increases at the toe.

 

2^nd rnd:  Ch 1.  Heel-2 sc in same sc as sl st. (1sc in next st. 2 sc in next st.) 2 times. 8 st.  Side-Sc in each of next 14(15-15) st. Hdc in each of next 8(9-10) hdc.  Toe-(2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in next hdc) 3 times. 2 hdc in next hdc. 11st.  Side-Hdc in each of next 8(9-10) hdc.  Sc in each of next 14(15-15) st.  Join with sl st to first sc of previous rnd.  65(67-69)st.

 

3^rd rnd:  Ch 1.  Heel-2sc in same sc as sl st. (1 sc in each of next 2 sc.  2 sc in next sc.) 2 times. 1 sc in next sc. 11st.  Side-Sc in each of next 15(16-16) st. Hdc in each of next 7(8-9) hdc.  Toe-(2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in each of next 2 hdc) 3 times.

2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in next hdc. 15 st.  Side- Hdc in each of next 7(8-9) hdc.  Sc in each of next 15(16-16)st.  Join with sl st to first sc of previous rnd.  72(74-76)st.

 

4^th rnd:  Ch 1.  Heel-Sc in same sc as sl st. 1 sc in next sc. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc.)3 times. 14st.  Side-Sc in next 22(24-25) st.  Toe-(1 sc in each of next 2 hdc. 2sc in next hdc.) 2 times. 1sc in each of next 3 hdc. (2 sc in next hdc. 1 sc in each of next 2 hdc) 2 times. 19st.  Side- Sc in next 22(24-25) st.  Join with sl to first sc of previous rnd.  79(81-83)st.  End here and fasten off for size S and M.

 

5^th rnd:  For size L only.  Ch 1.  Heel-1sc in same sc as sl st. 1 sc next sc. (2 sc in next sc. 1sc in each of next 3 sc.)3 times. 17st.  Side-Sc in next 25 sc.  Toe-1 sc in each of next 2 sc.  2 sc in next sc.  1sc in each of next 4 sc.  2 sc in next sc.  1sc in each of next 3 sc.  2 sc in next sc.  1 sc in each of next 4 sc.  2 sc in next sc.  1sc in each of next 2sc. 23st.  Side- Sc in next 24 sc.  Join with sl to first sc of previous rnd.  Fasten off.  90st.

 

If desired, trace around outside edge of sole to create a pattern for interlining.  Cut out 2 pieces, cutting about ¼ inch smaller than crochet pieces.  As you are joining the two soles insert interlining.  

 

Hint- The contrasting yarn that marked the toe and heel can be used to match stitches of two soles before crocheting them together.  Fig 2.

 

With wrong side of two soles together work sc through both soles around outside edge. Fig3. Fasten off.

 

Hint- Sole may not lay flat at this point.  It will quicky straighten out when it is worn.

 

Fig 2.

Fig 3.

 

Upper (make 2)

 

For size S use crochet cotton size 3, crochet hook US D.  For size M and L use sportweight yarn and crochet hook US E.

  

Motif=6 clusters of dc (small motif) or trc (large motif.  

 

Small beginning cluster:  Ch 4 or 7. (Yo and insert hook in 4^th ch from hook. Yo and draw up loop. Yo and pull through 2 loops on hook.) Repeat. Yo and draw yarn through all three loops on hook. Ch 3.

 

Small cluster:  (*Yo and insert hook in same ch sp as previous cluster. Yo and pull through 2 loops*.)3 times. Yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook. Ch 3.  

 

Large beginning cluster:  Ch 9.  (Yo twice and insert hook in 5^th ch from hook. Yo and draw up loop. Yo and pull through first two loops on hook.  Yo and pull through two loops.) 3 times. Yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook. Ch 5.

 

Large cluster:   (**Yo twice and insert hook in same ch as previous cluster. Yo and and draw up loop. Yo and pull through 2 loops. Yo and pull through 2 loops**.) 4 times. Yo and pull through 5 loops on hook.  Ch 5.

 

Hint:  Small clusters are made with 3 dc.  Large clusters are made with 4 trc.  Ch 3 can count as 1 dc.  Ch 4 can count as 1 trc.

1st rnd:  1^st small motif- Ch 4. Work small beginning cluster.  Work small cluster 5 times. Join with sl st in top of beginning cluster.  

 

2^nd small motif- Ch 7. Work 1 small beginning cluster.  Work 1 small cluster. For third cluster work from* to * of small cluster only 2 times. Insert hook through 7^th chain from hook-next to previous motif-yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.  Fig 4.  Sl st through top of beginning cluster of previous motif.  Fig. 5.  Ch 3 and work small cluster, do not ch 3. Sl st through top of 6^th cluster of previous motif.  Fig 6.   Ch 3. Work 2 more small clusters. Join with sl st in top of beginning cluster.

 

Fig 4

Fig 5.

 

Fig 6.

 

Repeat 2^nd small motif 4 times.  

 

This makes a row of 6 small motifs. Fig 7.

 

Fig 7.

 

Make 3 large motifs in a row.

 

1^st large motif- work similar to small motif. Ch 9.  Work large beginning cluster. Work 1 large cluster.  For third cluster work from ** to ** of large cluster only 2 times.  Insert hook through 9^th ch from hook-next to previous motif-yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. Sl st through top of beginning cluster of previous motif. Ch 5 and work large cluster, do not ch 5. Sl st through top of 6^th cluster of previous motif.   Ch 5. Work 2 more small clusters. Join with sl st in top of beginning cluster.

 

2nd large motif- Ch 9.  Work large beginning cluster.  Work large cluster 2 times. For 4th cluster work from ** to ** only 3 times. Insert hook through 9^th ch from hook. Yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.  Sl st through top of 1^st cluster of previous motif. Ch 5 and work large cluster, do not ch 5. Sl st through top of 6^th cluster of previous motif. Ch 5. Work 1 more large cluster. Join with sl st in top of beginning cluster.

 

3^rd large motif- repeat 1^st large motif. Fig 8.

 

Fig 8.

Repeat 2^nd small motif 5(5 -6) times.

 

On final motif join 6^th cluster to 4^th cluster of 1st motif with sl st.  Fig 9.  Ch 3.  Join 1^st cluster of final motif with 3^rd cluster of first motif with sl st.  Fig 10. 

 

Fig 9.

 

Fig 10.

 

 

2^nd rnd:   With right side of work facing ch 4. ***(Sc in ch 3 sp. Ch 2. Sc in next ch 3 sp. Ch 2. Dc inserting hook between both ch 3 spaces where motifs are joined. Ch 2.)5(5-6) times.  Fig 11.  Fig 12.

 

Fig 11.

 

Fig 12.

 

Beginning at 1^st large motif, (sc in ch 5 sp.  Ch 2)2 times.  Dc in sp where motifs join.  Ch 2.  Sc in ch 5 sp.  Ch 2.  Sc in ch 5 sp, ch 2, sc in same ch 5 sp.  Ch 2.  Sc in ch 5 sp.  Dc in sp where motifs join.  Ch 2.  (Sc in ch 5 sp.  Ch 2)2 times.  Dc in sp where motifs join. Ch 2.

 

Continue with same pattern as between parentheses at *** all the way around.  Join with sl st at in beginning ch 4 sp.  

 

3^rd rnd:  Join upper to sole.  With wrong side of upper facing bottom of sole (crochet stitches formed around the edge when the soles were joined are on the top of sole Fig !3, 14.) temporarily tie center of 2^nd large motif to center sc at toe with a scrap of yarn. Fig 15.  

Hint-Center of 2^nd large motif is formed where sc, ch 2, sc were made in ch 5 sp. Fig 16.

 

Fig 13.  Top of sole.

 

Fig 14.  Bottom of sole

 

Fig 15.

Fig 16.

 

Line up center back of sole with center back of heel.    

With top of sole facing insert hook through sc of heel and through ch 2 sp of upper.  1 sc.  Work one sc through each sc on edge of sole, and closest ch 2 sp or sc of upper, stretching upper to fit sole.  Fig 17.  

 

Fig 17.

 

Work around to center of toe, stretching upper to match sole.  Remove temporary tie and work around to beginning sc.  Ch 6.  Sc into sp where motifs are joined at top edge of upper.  

 

4^th rnd:  Turn slipper right side out so row of sc just worked is inside.  Fig 18.

 

Fig 18.

 

Ch 4.  (Sc in top of next cluster. Ch 2. Dc in sp where motifs are joined. Ch 2.) Repeat to large motifs. Fig 19, 20.  Sc in top of cluster. Dc in sp where motifs are joined.  Hdc in ch 5 sp. Dc in sp where motifs are joined. Ch 2. Fig 21.  Continue with pattern in parentheses to beginning of round.  Join with sl st in ch 4 sp.  Fig 22.

 

Fig 19.

 

Fig 20.

 

Fig 21.

 

5^th rnd:  Sl st into first ch 2 sp.  Ch 2.  2 hdc in same ch 2 sp.  (3hdc in next ch 2 sp) Repeat to center front.

Hdc in dc of previous round.  Hdc in hdc.  Hdc in dc.  (3hdc in next ch 2 sp)  Repeat to first ch 2 of round.  Sl st in ch 2.  Fasten off.  Fig 22.

 

Fig 22.

 

Weave in any loose threads.

 

Run elastic braid through all hdc of last round.  Elastic goes over center hdc and under 2 hdc.

Fig 23.

 

Fig 23.

 

Secure elastic.

 

 

 

Variations:

Baby yarn may be used in place of sportweight cotton yarn for upper.

 

For M or L crochet cotton size 3 may be used.  Add 1 small motif for M, 2 small motifs for L.

 

To make sole larger add 1 st to beginning ch.  Then add 1 sc to each side of sole.  Upper will stretch to fit-no adjustment needed.

 

Key to Abbreviations

c=crochet

ch=chain

ch sp=chain space

dc=double crochet

hdc=half double crochet

rnd=round

sc=single crochet

sl st=slip stitch

st=stitch

trc=treble crochet

 

Mimosa and Sinfonia sportweight cotton yarn is available at Hobby Lobby.

 

This pattern is for personal use only.  

All pattern rights belong to Marianne Dittmar. Pattern is not to be sold or used in any collection or products for sale.